Coffee Dorks Beware!

I should preface this review by stating that it is for a 50 year old model of this coffee maker. Faberware has been making this for a long time, and I recently latched onto an ancient one of these. The only difference in all these years has been the replacement of the little glass perc globe on top of the lid with a black handle. Otherwise, it is the same 1000 watt fast brewer.

I actually rumaged around in my garage full of old coffee equipment to find this after reading culinary writer Mark Ruhlman's blog earlier this month wherein he extolled the virtues of the percolator. I have used nearly every method imaginable to make coffee, except for the perc. As someone who takes great pleasure in brewing up the perfect cup of coffee, following all the tedious little rules about water temp and roast freshness, the percolator just seemed to violate all the rules. Just goes to show you that the more you think you know, the less you really do.

The chubby little Faberware does not have a lot going for it as far as aesthetics. It is squat and ugly, resembling a 1950's version of R2-D2. That is where the ugliness ends, however. The brew basket is stainless steel, not aluminum like on many other percolators. And the short welded on spout, though ugly, is actually a plus; no long skinny spout that is hard to clean. And being chubby and squat, the little fellow won't tip over with a casual bump.

Making the decision to use a perc was difficult. Like I said, it just seems to violate all the rules of good coffee brewing. However, a quick check to see how hot the water would get showed me that it does not, contrary to what I had been led to believe, boil the water. The optimum temperature for brewing coffee is 195-205 degrees; the Faberware heated the water to a nice consistent 200 degrees. The water then makes its northward journey to the perc bubble, then to shower down through the grounds. This apparently does not burn the flavor out of the coffee.

The Faberware brews fast, a cup a minute like it says. This means that the 200 degree water is cycling repeatedly through the coffee, constantly picking up more and more of the flavorful compounds and oils. Since it brews fast, it doesn't over extract. Still, this method is supposed to be the worst way to make coffee. I found that my little 50 year old Faberware brewed a rich, robust pot of coffee that is far superior to anything I have ever brewed with any auto drip machine. And it is comparable to manual pour over brewing methods. It isn't as robust and complex as a French press, but who really wants complexity at six of the a.m.

Clean up is a snap. The stainless steel basket assembly, and the chrome interior really do not require a great deal of scrubbing after each use. But, I can see how any percolator would get funky over time if one neglected this one minute clean up ritual after use. But, any coffee equipment will become rancid to the point of unusability if cleaning is neglected.

I am sold on this little perc. I haven't been using it long, but it has seen many years of duty in someone's kitchen. And it works like a champ. I have truly become converted. And I'm not someone who doesn't know good coffee. I roast my own beans, I use a high quality conical burr grinder. Many people would consider me a coffee snob, though I'm really not. I just love really good coffee. And this Faberware percolator makes really good coffee. As a plus, it will probably outlast any auto drip brewer currently on the market.