Pretty impressive on several counts

If you don’t go look at the Whirlpool LHW0050PQ and its matching dryer (electric only), you wouldn’t guess it’s made in Italy. It is identical to the EuroTech EWF272 washer with the only differences being slight trim details and labeling terminology on the dials. It has exactly the same capacity, cycles, settings and dimensions.

It’s amazingly small in its overall dimensions and will fit under a counter in the space occupied by a built-in dishwasher, yet it has an amazingly large capacity. It spins up to 1,200 rpm (there’s a variable spin speed control) and, when it does, the clothes come out amazingly dry. They take far less time in the dryer because of that. Other than during the spin cycle, the machine is very quiet, with a good sound insulation package built in.

As with most front loaders, the cycles take 50-60 minutes, depending on which one you choose. That means the previous washload in the dryer is done before the washer is, in most cases, so the dryer will always be available when the washer is finished.

Here’s what I don’t like. At one point during the speed-up in the spin cycle, the machine vibrates horrendously, despite my successful efforts to level it exactly. My apartment floor just isn’t solid enough, I think. Those who have sturdy floors -- especially if there's a concrete slab under the vinyl or linoleum -- would probably not have this problem.

There’s no water temperature control – wash temperature depends on the cycle you choose. That’s actually fine because there are enough cycles available to give you what you want. However, you have to look at a chart in the manual to know what cycle is what temperature. I applied some self-adhesive color-coding dots to the dial to indicate the wash temperature for each cycle. The manufacturer ought to color code the dial that way – blue for cold, yellow for warm, red for hot. I used two dots for “extra hot,” because the machine has its own 1,500 watt water heater that boosts the hot water on two of the cycles to 140°F.

Oddly, there’s no bleach dispenser and the manual recommends not using bleach. If you want bleach, they suggest HE detergent with bleach already in. I use powdered color-safe bleach anyway, never liquid chlorine bleach, so this feature didn’t bother me much and, so far, adding powdered bleach with the detergent in the dispenser works fine.

There are useful option buttons for extra rinsing and a pre-wash (with its own charge of detergent in the dispenser).
The capacity is amazing. There are front loaders with larger washloads, but they are way bigger machines overall – this one is just under 24” wide, just over 33” tall and 22-1/2” deep. I washed my comforter in it. Amazing what a washer with no agitator can do. It’s 2.9 cu.ft., but a 3.0 cu.ft. top loader with an agitator can’t do as much.

HE detergent is a rip-off, but you need something low sudsing for a machine like this. Sears has amazingly well-priced HE detergent (compared to everything else) and Arm & Hammer Ultra Fabricare powder is low-sudsing to begin with. Two 1/8 cup coffee measures (1/4 cup total) of Arm & Hammer works great in this machine – the clothes are wonderfully clean using that.

I bought an extended warranty because “made in Italy” bothers me. I used to own a 1976 Fiat 128 automobile that was always needing repair. I hope this machine proves my opinion of Italian engineering wrong.

Update: I originally fogot to mention that there's a matching electric dryer, Model No. LEW0050PQ that is of the identical outside dimensions. It can be used side-by-side with the washer, both can be built in under a counter, or the dryer can be stacked on top of the washer with the purchase of a stacking kit that includes the necessary hardware to anchor the dryer to the washer so it won't move or tip over.

Further, the washer and dryer can be raised 18" with the purchase of a special pedestal that is rather pricy. In a lot of laundry rooms, that's a possibility and raising the height of the washer and dryer makes front-loading much easier with less bending over. As the controls are on the front of the washer (same for dryer), you can still reach them easily with the pedestals in place and top of the washer and dryer at 52 inches or so.

Update: 02/20/2006 - I bought this washer and its matching dryer from Lowe's with 12 months of free financing. I just made the final payment, so I've had the laundry pair for a year now and I have the following observations after a year of ownership.

- A really large load of towels won't rinse well due to the heaviness of terrycloth. The towels will come out stiff with detergent. With any load of towels, I find I have to reduce detergent to a minimal quantity of about 2 level tablespoons (1 level standard coffee measure). Doing a half load of towels also helps. One trick: After the wash cycle completes and the indicator light goes to "rinse," stop the machine and run the spin cycle at 1200 rpm. The high-speed spin will get rid of a lot of the soapy water in the towels. Then run the rinse cycle with "extra rinse" selected. It helps. This problem with towels is my one real complaint about this machine.

- It's held up. I just bought a service contract for the washer and dryer from the Whirlpool website for one year at $122.30.

I note some of the negative comments written by others and address some of those here:

- Stainless steel drum (or tub) is "cheap." That's the opposite of the truth. All high-end washers have stainless steel tubs and those tubs typically come with a 20-year or lifetime warranty. The porcelain lined tubs are over standard steel that can rust if the porcelain gets chipped and the steel is revealed. A stainless steel tub can't chip or rust, not ever. What's important is that the solid outer tub and the perforated inner one both be stainless steel, which is the case here. (Some cheaper washers have a plastic ABS outer tub which you can't see and a stainless steel inner tub.)

- Lack of a bleach dispenser. It really ought to have one. But I use powdered oxygen bleach (such as Clorox 2 or the equivalent store brand) or the cheaper version of Oxy-Clean with the "All" brand on it -- and as a powder, it can go in the detergent dispenser along with the detergent. My whites come out very white.

- Don't ever accept delivery of a dented appliance, unless you bought it that way on an "as-is" basis. Outer damage very often means "inner damage." You can't blame the manufacturer for damage because the appliance was dropped or bashed in transit. Mine was in fine shape when delivered and hasn't quit working.

- Call the Whirlpool "Cool-Line" if you're having repair problems. It's 1-800-253-1301. They will assist you in getting a competent repair person out if your machine is having problems while under warranty. If you've had a couple of bad repair experiences, get them to send you a brand new machine and have them take the "lemon" back.

- Don't ever use standard detergent in a front-loader. It will oversuds and cause problems for you. With a front-loader, short of a damaged door seal, if you have a wet floor after running the washer, it's a result of oversudsing. The high suds come out the air vents on the back of the machine at the top -- just water can't come out that way -- and then the suds collapse on the floor leaving pools of water. The one exception is POWDERED Arm & Hammer Fabricare detergent, which I've used with success because it is naturally low-sudsing. Use no more than 1/4 level cup -- and less if you don't have hard water. Otherwise, make sure your detergent has the "HE" (high-efficency)logo on the box OR give directions for use in a front-loader or other high-efficiency machine.

- HE detergent can be pricy, so here or some tips. Sears has a full-line of HE detergent in the hardware department, their brand, at a great price. Trader Joe's sells three detergents that are HE compatible -- but don't have enzymes for better stain removal -- that are a great price. (Enzyme-free detergent is indicated for woolens and down-filled items, by the way, because the enzymes can partially "digest" the proteins in wool and down.) Costco is also selling "Kirkland" brand detergent in both powder and liquid with the "HE" logo on the container.

- If your clothes are coming out "crusty" or stiff after drying, use less detergent, even if it's "HE" rated. Stiff clothes are a result of too much detergent left after rinsing.

- Use way less liquid fabric softener. If it's concentrated such as Downy or Snuggle, use the minimal amount indicated by the dotted line closest to the bottom of the cap -- and dilute with warm water up to the line in the fabric softener dispenser. Using the regular amount of fabric softener (for a top loading machine with an agitator) will result in a weird, slimy feel after the clothes are dry.

- Don't be afraid to use the highest spin speed of 1,200 rpm so your clothes will dry quickly in the dryer. Normal clothes will not be adversely affected by a high spin speed. (Note that the delicate cycle on this machine limits the spin speed to lower rpms no matter what setting the spin speed dial is on.) If the clothes are so delicate that you'd put them in a next "wash-bag" in a top loader, use a spin speed of medium or less.

- I remove the detergent dispenser drawer when I'm done for the day and dry out its compartment with a clean, dry washcloth and leave the dispenser inverted to dry thoroughly for a day. I also leave the washer door open for a couple of days when I'm through with laundry. So far, I haven't had any mildew smell. I think letting the machine dry out between uses is important.

Update:  01/05/2009.  The washer still functions well as far as cleaning.  The shaking issue remains.  There are some anti-vibration pads to go under the legs of the washer, multiple brands, that didn't even exist three or four years back.  They do help, and I tried four brands to find the one that's most effective.  My one complaint is that the liquid fabric softener dispenser frequently dispenses right into the wash water with the detergent, possibly because there is water/softener trapped in it from the previous load that causes it to siphon into the washer.  (Now I take out the dispenser drawer before each washload to make sure it's free of any standing water in the fabric softener dispenser's drain hole, and I add the softener after it's through filling with wash water and tumbling in the wash cycle.)

I have had no mold or mildew problems or off odors, but I've been careful to leave the door open after use so that the drum can dry out inside, and I also remove the detergent/softener dispenser drawer and dry out its cavity with a terry washcloth and I leave the drawer on top of the machine, upside down to dry out for 24 hours.  Running a cycle empty of clothes with hot water, some automatic dishwasher detergent and 1 cup of chlorine bleach every month or two undoubtedly helps as a preventive measure.

I note that this model was fairly recently supplanted by another one of the same Italian manufacture, dimensions and general appearance, and the LHW0050PQ is no longer sold by Whirlpool.